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Rain wear

As it cools down and chilly rainy days increase it gets handier and handier to have something waterproof or hooded. Raincoat or Rain jacket sewing patterns can keep you dry this chilly season.

I’ve rounded up a few options, and some places to shop appropriate fabrics in NZ, but let me know if I’ve missed some!

Sirkka Hooded Jacket

The Sirkka from Named Clothing is a light, unlined jacket with a detachable hood, long sleeves, and a zipper closure. The jacket features a high collar and large patch pockets with a side pocket and another pocket underneath the flap. The top half of the zipper is covered with a zipper shield with snap button closure. The overlapping pocket flaps with snaps create a fun little detail. The hood, hemline and cuffs are gathered with elastic cords. All seams of the jacket are sewn using flat-felled seams for a neat and durable finish.

“The Garden at Bougival” by Berthe Morisot

RAINCOAT, PATTERN №908

This raincoat pattern from Grasser has trench coat vibes with a big hood and voluminous pockets

“Villa with Orange Trees, Nice” by Berthe Morisot

Adult Rain Poncho

This $5 PDF pattern is from Ripstop by the roll

The Landgate

The Landgate from Merchant & Mills is a hooded outer which features a drawstring waist and side and front pocket options. The pattern is for both men and women.

Eden Coat

The Eden Coat from Tilly and The Buttons almost made it into my recent Stormflaps post, but I popped it in here instead.

Fully lined, Eden has raglan sleeves and a high neck hood to keep out the wind, practical pockets and a hanging loop.

Choose from hip or long lengths, snaps or toggle fastenings with optional zip, two pocket styles and optional storm flaps

More patterns?

Men’s raincoat from Grasser
Kid’s raincoat from Grasser
Women’s parka from Grasser
Women’s jacket from Pauline Alice Patterns

I AM Jacques

The I AM Jacques coat is a classic raincoat with a hood. The zipper is hidden by a button placket which closes with snap fasteners. There’s two big patched pockets to carry your essentials and it’s fully lined and comes in 3 different lengths.

Cyprus Cape

The Cyprus Cape from Sewaholic is a wide sleeves, a hood, front-zip closure, and flap pockets.

Walking jacket -Momiji

The Momiji Walking Jacket from Waffle Patterns has an asymmetrical zip and a lot of pockets

Sou’Wester Rain Hat

The Sou’Wester Rain Hat from NZ-designer Twig & Tale is a classic waterproof hat which reminds me of lighthouse keeper wear.

Waterproof fabrics in NZ?

Coated taslon and showerproof fabrics from Moreland Fabrics
Rainwear from Backstreet Bargains
Oilskin from Miss Maude
Showerproof from Draper Fabrics
Softshell from Spotlight
Waterproof from Remnant Warehouse (actually in Aus)

Akerfeldt Coat

The Akerfeldt Coat from Elbe Textiles is available 132cm (52″) chest. This unlined, boxy coat has great pockets and can have a hood or collar.

Want to get printing?

Email your files through to hello@chchsews.com to get started!

Storm flaps

This week I’m smitten with storm flaps, basically on anything. While they’re functional on jackets or on trench coats (they’re supposed to direct the rain water off you), they’re purely aesthetic on shirts and dresses… I suppose they’re also purely aesthetic on jackets that haven’t used water proof or water resistant fabric..

Either way, I’m obsessed with them, on trench coats but also on dresses and shirts! I like them aesthetic and functional!

The Helmi trench blouse & tunic dress from Named Patterns

The straight-cut blouse has elements from the classic trench coat, such as the cape and sleeve straps. The rounded collar and slightly curved hem with slits add a touch of soft femininity. The more streamlined tunic variation is also straight-cut and has a simple stand-up collar, half sleeves, and a curved hem. Both variations have a discreet and elegant hidden button placket.

Henri Trench from République du Chiffon

HENRI is a classic overcoat that has been adapted with a simple, elegant, and feminine style. Its ample cut means it can be worn over any outfit. Raglan sleeves and patch pockets give it an authentic look. Play with the symmetry of the front storm flap and back rain guard for more fun.

Jack trench coat from Ready To Sew

A contemporary twist on a trench coat. It has a relaxed fit and features big curved lapels, a gathered collar and a self-tied waist. Design to be worn open.

BARBARA from I Am

I am Barbara, a twist on the classic shirt: I have classic shirt sleeves and collar, cuffs with a slit opening, a back yoke and a center-back pleat. My front buttons are hidden under a placket and I have a wide cut. I can also be made as a dress.
My details make me very original: my front and/or back flounces are set in the sleeves. I have three different flounce variations with or without godets for a truly unique style.

Lola Linen Trench from Fabrics Store

Free pattern available to download through the link above.

Cortland Trench from Grainline

With its modern swing shape and length that hits mid-hip, the Cortland is an update on the classic trench. Raglan sleeves give you plenty of movement and room for layering while the storm flaps and generous collar keep out inclement weather. The Cortland also features a double-breasted front closure and roomy welt pockets. All seams are bound, which not only gives your coat a professional finish, but also helps it stand up to wear and tear.

Suraya Jacket from Sew Over It

Suraya features a host of lovely details, including epaulettes, storm flaps, sleeve loops, a back vent, welt pockets, collar and lapels. The main body of the jacket is unlined, though the set-in sleeves are lined for comfort. The seams are bound with bias binding for a stunning, super satisfying finish. The jacket is designed to hang open so there are no closures at the front.

Trench coat, pattern №742 from Grasser

It’s a regular fit A-line below-the-knee trench coat with lining. Front has one-piece side panels; trench coat is single breasted with combined central closure that consists of 1 installed snap button and hidden button panel with 8 sewn buttonholes and 8 buttons. Front has two patch pockets with one-piece flaps.

LOOSE-FIT DRESS/SHIRT LE 606 from DP Studio

A belted dress with a lot of volume on the top half, to which a series of pleats is added on sleeves, back and skirt level. The back is enhanced by a yoke and two bellows pockets bring the dress a sporty look.

Isla trench coat from Named Patterns

This timeless trench coat is a wardrobe staple! The straight-cut, lined coat has plenty of details, such as a belted collar, a cape, welt pockets, a belt, and tabs on sleeve openings. There is a vent at the back for added comfort. The double-breasted button fastening adds a classic look which is topped off with double top stitching.

ULYSSES TRENCH from Victory Patterns

ULYSSES mixes trench coat styling with a modern look. This relaxed, straight-cut jacket features draped elements such as a shawl collar and a clean-lined, curved back “rain guard” overlay.

TPC8//TRENCH JACKET from Trend Patterns

HANNAH DRESS from Victory Patterns

Not technically storm flaps, I’m going to go ahead and claim this one as on-topic since I think this crossover would direct water.

HANNAH is a sleeveless dress with a subtle A-line shift silhouette. It features angled side seams and front pockets, which transition cleverly into folding side-panels that wrap around to the back and criss-cross over each other. The hemline, with its upward curve at the sides and a subtle dip in the back, takes its inspiration from men’s shirting, A high neckline is edged with a double fold binding. The button up front is concealed with a hidden button placket for a minimal touch.

Jacket, pattern №826 from Grasser

Men’s shirt with storm flap on front
Free Vera Linen Trench from Fabrics Store (free)
Viki Sews Trench for girls
Viki Sews Trench for boys
Cyprus rain cape sewing pattern
Free Tansy Trench from Mood Sewciety (free)
Men’s trench from this strange website

Want to get printing?

Email your files through to hello@chchsews.com to get started!

Dupe this

Here’s a few pins from my collection which have captured my eye recently, and the fabric and patterns to duplicate them.

Duplicate this outer layer with TFS Poppy Coat, StyleArc Ingrid Coat, I AM Merlin, or Leisl & Co Chaval.

Chocolate houndstooth, carob plaid houndstooth, Miss Maude plaid, or this grandad check coating make a great choice for the jacket.

Bomber Jackets! Does everyone need one? Maybe.

Use these patterns from Seamwork, Grasser, Cashmerette Cashmerette, Trish Newberry, Jalie or the free pattern from Mood

Get your ribbing from Miss Maude, Fable Fabrics, Milky Fabrics, For Fabrics Sake, Backstreet Bargains, or Fabric Box.

Gingham, gathers and a puffy sleeve? Dupe this with the Faye Dress from NZ-based designer Hubba Ding.

The Fabric Store has so many options for gingham, that it’s gingham galore over there!

Find your perfect shacket pattern here on the blog.

Dupe these with purple check wool/alpaca coating, multi-coloured jumbo plaid, a pastel fleece from Mood Fabrics, or black and brown wool check, red and black buffalo plaid.

A yellow dream ensemble! Check out the winter layering roundup for turtleneck options.

Dupe the pants with Audrey Pants or Eddie Woven Pants from StyleArc, the free Sara Pleated Pants, the Inès High Waisted Trousers or the Tatjana Trousers from Just Patterns.

This great gathered dress heroes this excellent fabric which has a brush-stroke patterned fabric.

Dupe it with the Muna and Broad Huon Dress and this painterly pear-print rayon from Fab Fabrics in Auckland.

These patched jackets use repurposed fabric to create a unique jacket!

No fabric suggestions for this one since repurposing and scrap-busting seems to be the aim of the game!

Duplicate the pattern with the Muna and Broad Cobden Chore Jacket, Julien Chore Jacket, the over-shirt, or the free Paola Workwear Shirt.

These silk snakey PJs pair a slippery serpent with slinky silk.

See the ChCh sews roundup of sleepwear patterns.

For snake fabric see this Liberty Fabrics print from Maai Design or this snakey Melanie Macilwain print. The Fine Cloth Company has a great selection of coloured plain silks.

Want to get printing?

Email your files through to hello@chchsews.com to get started!

Shackets are back

Shackets are in for winter this year- I don’t make the rules, but it’s definitely official and I’ve stamped my approval on it!

I say shackets are back, but since there’s always so many folks asking ‘what exactly is a shacket’ I think maybe they’re actually in for the first time?

A shacket is a cross between a shirt and a jacket. Not as warm as a coat, they’re generally unlined wool button-up jackets with button plackets and big chest pockets. They come in a variety of length but they’re almost all oversized and feature a drop shoulder.

Shacket shacket

Looking for shacket sewing patterns? Or shirt jacket sewing patterns? Here’s a roundup of some of the shackets which can keep you warm this year!

The Savannah Shacket is a free pattern from Mood Sewciety

The Logan Shacket from StyleArc is available in a variety of print formats- be aware that the patterns aren’t necessarily A0 files from StyleArc unless you purchase the A0 multi-size pattern (which costs more) as they use a 36″ print as their standard size (similar to Europe). I can print these, but they’re priced differently to A0 prints since their length is always variable.

The Shoalhaven Shacket from Muna and Broad is a cross between a shirt and a jacket and is perfect for a cozy wool jacket!

Muna and Broad makes plus size sewing patterns, and will grade patterns up to your size if their current size chart is too small to include you.

I’m 1/2 of Muna and Broad so this is blatant favouritism on my part.

Want more pattern ideas?

The Polina Oversized Shacket from Tint of Mint Patterns

Also check out the:
The Fairmount Shacket from Hey June
Franzi Shacket free pattern
Carter Shacket from Trish Newberry
Shirt Jacket from Coralina Patterns
Adult Shirt Jacket from Peekaboo Patterns
Men’s Shirt Jacket from Clothwork Collective
Ingrid Shacket from Viki Sews

The Bud Shacket from Seamwork is a great price if you have an ongoing Seamwork membership

The Rya Shirt/Coat from Fibremood

Want to get printing?

Email your files through to hello@chchsews.com to get started!

Big pocket patterns

It’s fruit gathering season. Urban scavenging season. Pear detritus time. Every time I’ve been out with the dog on our long evening walks I’ve regretted not being able to fit Even More Produce into my already ample pockets.

The Pocket Skirt from Peppermint Mag

This free skirt pattern was designed by Tara from Paper Theory and is available from 60-121cm (24-47.5″) waist and 86-146cm (34-57.5″) hip

The Jumpsuit from Rational Dress Society

This free pattern comes in a variety of styles and fits in order to cover a lot of bodies and genders.

Add more pockets. Add cargo pockets on the legs. Prepare to load yourself up!

Muna and Broad

The Belmore Jacket (left) and Sculthorpe Pants (right) both have generous pockets suitable for produce. The pockets on the Belmore are bonus pockets from the M&B Patreon.

The Akerfeldt Coat from Elbe Textiles is available 132cm (52″) chest. This unlined, boxy coat has great pockets and can have a hood or collar.

Those huge gusseted pockets look ideal for filling with goodies!

Stokx Patterns

Berlin-based Aussie pattern designer has The 7 Dress (left) and the Carla Rock skirt (right)

Rushcutter Dress

The Rushcutter Dress from Sydney-based In The Folds has pockets which run down to the bottom hem of the dress!

Lichen Duster

The Lichen Duster from Sew Liberated has pockets which could probably be made even deeper

Soline Shorts

The Soline Shorts from Staystitch Pattern Company

These gusseted pockets could be increased even further to give more room for fruit!

Georgie Pinafore

The Georgie Pinafore from Dunedin-based Jennifer Lauren Handmade

Sewing Patterns, made in Aotearoa

A lot of you expressed interest in hearing about NZ sewing pattern designers and first up in our roundup are sewing pattern businesses that are based in NZ or run by NZers!

Let me know in the comments if I’ve missed any NZ Based Dressmaking Pattern Companies

Below the Kōwhai
Christchurch-based BTK is a family business which makes gorgeous sewing patterns children and has recently expanded their offerings to include sewing patterns for women.

Ford Wardrobe
Auckland-based Ford Wardrobe currently has a pattern-less dress and a bucket hat pattern available for sale

Forget-me-not Patterns

Based in Wellington, FMN makes lovely feminine patterns for women. They have a free knit top pattern for those wanting to give the company a trial before purchasing.

Hubba Ding

Auckland-based Hubba Ding has a pretty impressive catalogue of patterns for women which seem to have popped up overnight. Not super size-inclusive, the designs are very fashion-trend forward.

Jennifer Lauren Handmade

This Dunedin-based business has a strong vintage vibe and has a wide variety of frocks, tops and even a couple of patterns for men. JLH has quite a few patterns in multiple cup-sizes

Liam Patterns
This new-comer to the sewing pattern market started producing sewing patterns based on their successful RTW garments during lockdown here in NZ. If their sizes are too small to include you, they will grade the pattern up for you at no additional cost.

Little Kiwis Closet
This NZ-based business makes sewing patterns for women, men, kids and babies too. If you and your family wear a lot of knit fabric- check out Little Kiwis Closet!

Make by The Fabric Store
The Fabric Store has recently started designing and selling PDF sewing patterns! So far they have 5 patterns, including the robe pictured above. If you fall outside their size range, they will grade the pattern for you at no additional cost.

Makyla Creates
This new-to-me sewing pattern business which makes modern boho-style sewing patterns for women.

Muna and Broad
Making patterns from basically Size 12+, M&B is a 1/2 NZ run business (I know this because I’m the 1/2)! If the size chart is too small to include you, Leila will grade the pattern up for you at no additional cost.

Muse Patterns
This Wellington-based pattern company makes PDF sewing patterns for adult women and has a strong vintage vibe.

My Keeper
If you don’t have time to sew their sewing patterns (size 6-22) then you can rent one of their finished garments.

Paper Doll Patterns
This pattern company specialises in cute clothes for children.

Papercut Patterns
Perhaps the most well-known NZ-based sewing pattern company, Papercut was one of the first Indie sewing pattern companies.

Paper Theory

Paper Theory is a UK-based sewing pattern company but owner Tara grew up in Dunedin! With a modern and simple silhouette, the Zadie Jumpsuit is one of their most well known patterns.

Scroop Patterns
This Wellington-based sewing pattern company has a strong historical-sewing vibe thanks to the historical sewing interest of owner & designer Leimomi of Dreamstress

Sewing Revival
Based at the top of the South Island, The Sewing Revival makes sewing patterns for women and children.

The Bold One
Slow-fashion patterns for women which have oodles of options (including height and various necklines)

Trish Newbery
This new-to-me sewing pattern company is NZ based and has a wide variety of sewing patterns for accessories and women’s clothes.

Twig and Tale

This NZ-based pattern company makes whimsical sewing patterns for kids and a variety of patterns for adult men and women.

Boiled Wool Patterns

It’s that chilly time of the year where boiled wool returns to shops! Last night I spotted new boiled wools on the For Fabrics Sake website (I particularly like the pinks and plums they’ve got)- and since I already ordered myself some of the plum fabric, it’s safe to tell you about it now!

Of course, boiled wool can be a bit confusing. It’s a knit, but it’s for jackets, but it doesn’t fray so you don’t have to overlock or finishes the edges? Here are some patterns which work in boiled wool- some that are even specifically for boiled wool fabrics!

The Loden Sweater

Free Loden Sweater from Dressmakers’ Guild

Leila and I have released 5 outerwear patterns together through Muna and Broad!

Our Mallee Jacket, Shoalhaven Shacket and Belmore Jacket are all great with boiled wool

The Boxwood Hoodie

The free Boxwood Hoodie from Mood Fabrics

The Foreman Jacket

This boiled wool jacket uses The Foreman Jacket from Merchant & Mills

The Tobin Sweater

The Tobin Sweater from Cashmerette is shown here in boiled wool!

The Big Easy Top

The Big Easy Top from The Maker’s Atelier

Harry

The I Am Harry cape

The French Dart Shift Tunic

The French Dart Shift tunic from Maven Patterns

The Eve Jacket

The Eve Jacket from Schnittchen Patterns

Ursula Coatigan

The Ursula Coatigan from SewgirlintheUK

Bianca Coat

The Bianca Coat from Sew Me Something

Jocko pullover

The Jocko pullover from Ready To Sew

Ninot Jacket

The Ninot Jacket from Pauline Alice Design

Boiled wool scraps?

I’ve been a bit obsessed with these boiled wool cushion covers, and I’m sure I have enough extra bits of boiled wool in my scrap stash to make myself a few throw cushion covers.

Here’s a tutorial from thehomesihavemade.com

Want to get printing?

Email your files through to hello@chchsews.com to get started!

Cosy Autumn Sewing

Summer sped by and it’s basically time for Autumn. I’ve already purchased my first wide-wale corduroy fabric of the season, so it seemed the perfect time to roundup some cosy projects for you!

Want more pattern ideas?

Belemnite Dress

The Belemnite Dress from Marilla Walker would look lovely with tights and a cosy coat for chilly weather!

One of the recommended fabrics for The Belemnite Dress is Double Gauze, which is sometimes called Double Muslin (the orange dress above uses this fabric)

Miss Maude has some with great patterned double gauze. For bargain prices, Backstreet Bargains has a lovely wedgewood blue double muslin, and The Fabric Shop in Otara has some lovely colours for $12 p/m. For Fabrics Sake also has some lovely colour options.

The Teddy Dress

From Make by TFS (Auckland)

A playful every-day knit dress pattern, designed to suit a variety of knit fabrics for all seasons, the skirt has subtle paneling to allow for maximised fabric yield.

Muna and Broad

The Hexham Dress and the quilted Grainger Coat from Muna and Broad

Quilted fabric in NZ

One way to make a super speedy quilted coat (like the ) is to purchase pre-quilted fabric! I’m not going to advocate for chopping into a heirloom quality blanket but purchasing quilted bed spreads is a great choice (and since they’re usually so wide, the per metre cost can be really great).

Spotlight & Lincraft have pre-quilted fabrics online (usually poly with poly batting), and many of the local Christchurch bricks-and-mortar stores stock pre-quilted fabrics in basic colours.

You can get quilted-ish jacquard from Merchant & Mills at Miss Maude and Revology. Nick’s Fabric also has black pre-quilted fabric with an unusual quilting pattern.

Jennifer Lauren Handmade is a Dunedin-based pattern designed who makes patterns with a vintage twist.

These two patterns, the Dulcie Pinafore and the Willa Wrap-Coat are available in her new Curve Size Range.

Twig & Tale

NZ-based Twig & Tale has a lot of outerwear for kids and outerwear for adults (including maternity and baby-carrying wear).

Hove Jacket

The Hove Jacket from Aussie-based In The Folds has a great look and a hood! If you love the hem and pockets, you might also like the Flynn Jacket.

Bottom-weight fabrics?

The two jackets from In The Folds call for bottom weight fabrics (think canvas, drill, etc).

Check out this blog post on shopping denim in NZ, the selection of ‘bottom weight’ fabrics at Auckland-based Fabric Box, the canvas selection at Backstreet Bargains.

The Kimball Bomber Jacket

from Cashmerette

Can’t find the right zip? Sometimes I’ve needed a zip which I just couldn’t find in stores- did you know that you can contact YKK in NZ and they’ll sell you zips?

I’ve heard that you can send them a swatch of fabric and they’ll even colour-match for you, if that’s your struggle!

The Cloud Set

The latest pattern offering from The Fabric Store is a cosy sweatsuit ensemble! The sweater has 3 views (including a hoodie and a classy funnel neck) and the pants have a jogger view (with gathered ankles) and a wide leg (right)

Thinking knits and sweaters?

Not usually one for Facebook, I’ve found quite a few bargains on french terry and t-shirt knit fabrics on the Fabric Stash From Factory (NZ only) | Facebook Facebook Group. Most things are pre-cut into metre bits but I just plan ahead for that!

Also check out this loopback sweatshirting from Nick’s Fabrics which is a bargain price! Fable Fabrics stocks a very cute selection of sweater knits (including some of those cute euro prints)! The Fabric Shop in Otara has a range of printed sweat fabrics (at toile prices).

As always, my list of NZ fabric shops is a good place to start.

The Adeline wrap dress and top

from Forget-Me-Not Patterns is a lovely option for cooler weather!

The Reznor Skirt

The Reznor Skirt from Elbe Textiles desperately wants to be layered over tights for chilly weather.

Want to get printing?

Email your files through to hello@chchsews.com to get started!

Shopping Denim in NZ

If you spotted the Jeans Sewing Pattern Roundup Blog and then thought ‘fine Jess, but where do I get fabric from in NZ?!?’
…. well this blog is for you.

What kind of denim do you want? Your project will inform the weight of the fabric, the stretch (or lack of stretch) of the fabric and also whether or not you can buy narrower selvedge denim.

Shops to start your search

Miss Maude
Always a good place to start your search, Miss Maude always has a lovely curated selection of fabrics, and the denim situation is no different!

Backstreet Bargains
Often the first place I look, especially when I’m hunting for toile fabrics. Backstreet separates their denim offerings into stretch denim and non-stretch denim categories

Fab Fabrics
The Auckland-based Fab Fabrics has frequent sales, with the codes heading out through their email newsletter. At the time of writing they had 40% off denim!

Fabric Box
Want coloured denim? Fabric Box in Auckland have you covered with a large range of 9oz coloured denims (and the usual indigo denim too)

Shops with less selection

The Fabric Store has a small selection of denim fabrics (including Liberty denim), as does Moreland Fabrics. The Fabric Shop in Otara has some excellently cheap selvedge denim, and Nick’s Fabrics has an interesting stretch denim that’s a different colour on each side. Drapers Fabric always stocks selvedge denim, and Revology has 2 lovely Merchant & Mills denims which have a great texture.

Across the ditch?

A+R Fabrics near Melbourne has a great selection of rigid and stretch denims, Maai Designs often has denim and currently has a great range of heavy drill in nice colours. Potter & Co is based in Perth and has a decent selection of denims to choose from.

Jeans sewing patterns!

Denim blue is basically a neutral which fits in with your wardrobe, no matter what your signature colours are and as colder weather rolls around here, jeans are on my mind!

You can go all out, adding top-stitching and rivets and the rest, or you can keep it low-key and skip all the extra steps! Today I’ve rounded up some jeans sewing patterns for you, some are more ‘classic jeans’ than others!